Banyalbufar, Mallorca - Things to do and where to stay

A bit about Banyalbufar

For those who want to experience true Mallorcan village idyll combined with outstanding scenery, Banyalbufar is a perfect choice for the holiday. The city is situated about 35 km from the capital of Palma in the stunning Tramuntana mountains, with opportunities to get to other picturesque cities such as Andratx, Sóller and Valldemossa in a very short time. If you choose to stay here, it is a good idea to rent a car for the holiday as public transportation is limited in this area.

The area’s special appearance and brand are the so-called marjades, which form rows and rows of terraces with houses on the hillside overlooking the sea. It is believed that during the Moorish dominance on the island, these plants have been used as an advanced irrigation system, where you have been able to grow crops on the terraces. Banyalbufar can be translated into “The Farm by the Sea” – and with its location 300 meters above sea level, on the lush hillside slopes, there is no doubt that Banyalbufar is the development of an agricultural community that has lived here for over 1500 years.

Banyalbufar is a charming and quiet village. Here you grow the silence and the idyll by the sea and siestas are still practiced at best. The bulk of the employment in Banyalbufar consists of agriculture, the many green areas and the climate around the Serra de Tramuntana mountain range provide optimal conditions for growing tomatoes in particular.

History of Banyalbufar

Below you can read about the history of the local area of Banyalbufar and how it has developed throughout times from the prehistory to the current town and municipality.

Prehistory

Roman period

Moorish foundation

Christian conquest

Modern age

Contemporary history

Prehistory

The first vestiges of human exploitation and habitation within the current perimeter of the municipality date from around 4000-3000 BC. Numerous archaeological sites have been excavated in the area, however, it is those of Son Valentí, talaiot de ses Mosqueres, Son Bunyola and ses Cases d’en Jordi which are the most interesting remains of the prehistory. In the lands of the Son Bunyola possession there has been found human remains in a burial site which was called Corral Fals.

The above mentioned sites all date from a unique culture of the islands of Mallorca and Menorca known as the Talayotic or Talaiotic. The name comes from the tower-like constructions, either cylinder formed or square, as ‘talaia’ means “watchtower” in Catalan. These constructions started to be constructed on the islands from around 1100 BC, in the mid-Bronze Ages, presumably due to the beginning of colonization in the Mediterranean region.

Before this time, there was a period known as the pre-Talayotic period which was characterized by habitation in caves and later (from 1500 BC-1100 BC), the construction of stone huts formed like vessels.

The talayots testify to the theories of colonization, as the philosophy behind the constructions turned far more military-oriented that before. The pre-Talayotic and Talayotic cultures was agricultural people mostly dedicated to raising livestock and collecting fruits from the trees.

Remarkable changes happened on the island in the time between the 6th to the 4th centuries, as Phoenicians and ancient Greeks started to cross the Mediterranean basin in quest for minerals, slaves, wood etc. used for trading activities. The mix of indigenous peoples with Greeks and Phoenicians led to another phase in regards to the architecture, the walled enclosures of the talayots which now became more like small protected villages. Some of these walled settlements can be seen in excellent condition, for example the Ses Païsses, the Son Fornés and the s’Hospitalet Vell. The Talayotic culture in Banyalbufar never developed to a such extend, but it is important to know about the culture in order to fully understand the history of the local area.

The Roman period

In 123 BC, Roman general Quint Cecili Metel conquered the islands from the Phoenicians, about 23 years after the fall of Carthage. Following the successful campaign, Metel was awarded the title of consul. Mallorca was at that time still widely inhabited by Phoenician warriors and tribes making it difficult to approach the shored of the island. Nevertheless, Metel found a way to get close to the shores, he strapped leather around his ships which protected them from stones thrown at them. After fighting down the main resistance of the indigenous peoples, Metel and his troops started to march through the island uncovering all Talayotic settlements and enslave the people. Mallorca never really became a great Roman population, however, two major cities were founded, Palma and Pol-lèntia, whereof the latter was the biggest and most important capital of the island.

In Banyalbufar, the small Talayotic settlement of Son Valentí continued to exist, probably as a Roman colony. At the same time, the settlement that was located in the lands of Son Bunyola stopped to exist, probably due to the merging of the area that was a natural consequence of the Roman colonization. One of the main reasons for the decision to keep Son Valentí over Son Bunyola, was most likely because of the ability to cultivate, whereof Son Valentí was far better for this purpose.

The Moorish foundation

Banyalbufar is probably the most emblematic area in Mallorca in regards to the Moorish population that came to the island in the Middle Ages. It was Moorish general Isam al-Khawlaní, or Iṣām al-Ḫawlānī, whom during a journey to Mecca discovered the archipelago and went to the emir of the Cordoba emirate (Emir Abdullah ibn Muhammad al-Umawi) to ask for authorization to capture the islands. Al-Khawlaní was granted authorization and a fleet, which he himself commanded, and went on a mission to conquer the Balearic archipelago that was launched in 902. After a few centuries of being almost dissipated from human habitation, Mallorca was conquered the same year and officially annexed to the Emirate of Cordóba.

Al-Khawlaní was appointed first Wāli (governor) of Mallorca in 903 and started a campaign to repopulate the island with Moorish tribes that primarily came from present day Morocco. The islands became known as “Illes Orientals de l’Àndalus“, as they were part of the emirate that was named al-Andalus.

Following the Moorish conquest, the city of Palma was renamed to Madina Mayurqua and the Almudaina palace was constructed along with baths, watering systems and mosques. Madina Mayurqua soon became an important trading center, but also an important harbor for launching pirate campaigns against ships in the Mediterranean basin, which together made it one of the most prosperous places in the Mediterranean.

The re-population of Mallorca by the new Moorish settlers came to be a defining point in the history of the island and in the local history of Banyalbufar. First of all, the place name which was later translated into medieval Catalan as “farm by the sea” or “nestled by the sea”. Secondly, the construction of water transportation systems (quanats) cisterns for storing water (ma’jils) and of the so-called “marjades”, stone terraces for making use of the water running down the mountain slopes, which has become a landmark of Banyalbufar. Thirdly, the introduction of new crops such as saffron, rice and artichokes. Fourthly, the introduction of a fiscal system on the island.

During Moorish rule the island was divided in about twelve jurisdictions for easier administration and collection of taxes. These jurisdictions were called “Juz” in singular and “Ajzà” in plural. Banyalbufar came under the largest of them all, Juz d’ Ahwaz al-Madina, which also comprised Marratxí, Esporles, Banyalbufar, Puigpunyent, Estellencs, Andratx, Calvià and Madina Mayurqua.

Those Moors that did not live in the capital of Madina Mayurqua settled in kindred communities of clans. They lived in farmsteads and sheds scattered all over the landscapes known as “alquerias” and “rafals”. The current possessions of Son Valentí and Son Balaguer, situated in the valley of Bunyola de Mar, were annexed to either the farmstead of Alqueria Roja (current Son Coll) or Alqueria sa Torre (current Son Bunyola). The Ses Mosqueres was probably a part of the large farmstead of Alpic, the current Granja d’Esporles.

In the local area, the Moors settled in two valleys which together would be called Banyalbufar. The name as written today, however, was the result of a later Catalanization that came by creating a link toponymically between Banyalbufar and Bunyola.

Christian conquest

In September 1229, after a short stop by the small island of Plantaleu (Sant Elm), the troops of King Jaume I of Aragón landed at the beach of Santa Ponca. The king had convinced both noblemen and church to end the Moorish rule of the archipelago, and had gathered an army of about 700 horsemen and 20,000 soldiers. There were two aspects in the conquest: 1. To end the piracy against Christian trade ships in the Mediterranean, which became the official reason. 2. To end to Muslim rule as part of the reconquista of al-Andalus.

The following three months the capital was under siege, the troops looted and killed as they pleased, they completely sacked the city. Those Moors not killed during the siege fled to the Tramuntana or Llevant mountains or even to Menorca. In late December 1229, Mallorca was officially captured and the Moorish governor had surrendered. The entire island was completely captured in 1231/32, after the surrender of the Alaró castle and Santueri castle.

According to the agreement, King Jaume divided the island and distributed the lands among knights, counts and church, and with this the kingdom of Mallorca was a reality. The distribution of lands is mentioned in detail on the book “Llibre del Repartiment de Mallorca”.

The two major valleys of Banyalbufar was divided amongst nobleman Ramon sa Clusa, Gilabert de Cruïlles and the bishop of Mallorca. Ramon de sa Clusa was given the the area surrounding the current town, while Cruïlles and the bishop split the lands belonging to the properties of Son Bunyola, Son Valentí, Son Balagueret, Son Coll and the small nucleus of Port des Canonge. This was the beginning of a new independent jurisdiction known as the “Baronia” (barony).

The lands of especially Son Valentí and Son Balaguer soon became the most important places for agricultural activities in Banyalbufar.

The modern age

In the modern age, Banyalbufar remained an independent jurisdiction which was merged with Esporles. The headquarter of the jurisdiction was the Sa Baronia estate in Banyalbufar, while the ecclesiastical administration was in Esporles.

The close relationship and corruption of the Crown of Aragón and the nobility provoked a social uprising in the mid-15th century where peasants revolted against the landowners. Again in the first third of the 16th century, a new revolt marked a dark chapter in the history of Mallorca, this time by the artisans guilds. In both cases the king had to intervene and hard repressions were put on the families of those who had supported the revolts, which led to more poverty and a larger social gap of the island.

From the mid-16th century, corsairs started to arrive by the coasts of Mallorca as a part of the Ottoman empire’s campaigning in the Mediterranean. The raids of the corsairs was frequent and brutal and caused much insecurity among the population. As a response to the many attacks, a network of watchtowers was erected along the coastlines, as well as some buildings was expanded with towers, for example bell towers of the churches and lookout platforms on estates.The towers signaled each other whenever an enemy ship was spotted in the sea, by smoke and flags the signal was transmitted until it reached the town centers and the inhabitants could prepare for battle or take refuge in the fortified church of Santa Maria. On the coastline of Banyalbufar, the watchtower of Torre del Verger, or Torre de ses Ànimes, was erected in 1579. The tower has been restored and is now a popular tourist attraction in the area, as you can really see and feel how it was to be a guard here.

In 1584, famous artist Gaspar Homs was commissioned to paint the main altarpiece of the Santa Maria church which is dedicated to Mary.

Despite of its modest size, Banyalbufar became an important agricultural area of Mallorca due to the cultivation of grapevines, especially the malvasia grapes. The king of Aragón was particularly happy with wine produced on the malvasia sort and promoted the grapes of Banyalbufar. The promotion of the king and massive export to the peninsula gave great prosperity to the area in the modern age.

The fishing industry grew to a significant size in Banyalbufar in the early 19th century. Actually, in 1829, a guild of fishermen was established containing 44 articles.Famous adventurer Archduke Ludwig Salvator of Austria mentioned Banyalbufar as one of the most important and active fishing villages in Tramuntana, after Valldemossa and Sóller. In 1910, there was a total of 72 fishermen, and in 1930, about 30 boats were operating occupying some 100 hundred men. During the winters, the fishermen went to work on the farms engaged in agricultural work as day laborers.

The development of the village had given rise to a public lavoir (wash house) in Sa Canaleta, as well as attracted a community of Augustinian nuns to settle and help with taking care of the sick and teach children. Moreover, in 1836, following the First Spanish Carlist War, Banyalbufar was segregated from Esporles upon multiple requests by Esporles.

However, at the end of the 19th century a terrible aphid plague of Phylloxera stroke Mallorca, just as it had done in France and Italy. The plague forced the winemakers and cultivators to burn down all vineyards which ended the wine adventure.

Following the crisis of the Phylloxera plague, the farmers started investing in cultivation of tomatoes, especially the ramellet sort. The cultivation of ramellet tomatoes became the main livelihood of Banyalbufar in the beginning of the 20th century, they were an exquisite delicacy that was sought for in especially Barcelona. The tomato plantations covered a surface of about 115 hectares in 1932, with a production of about 50,000 metric tons per year. Every week, 45 wagons came twice a week to pick up 30 boxes of tomatoes, each weighing 30 kilograms. Along with the fish caught in the area, the boxes of tomatoes were taken to the market in Palma, and to the harbor to be shipped off to Barcelona.

The years from 1923 to 1936 were a particularly prosperous time for Banyalbufar, during which an agricultural cooperative operated with great success. The village had its own communication service with Palma, a small cinema and a small electricity plant.

During the Second Republic, the works of developing a sewerage network was completed and a small slaughterhouse was created in Sa Canal Nova.

The great tomato adventure ended with the outbreak of the Spanish Civil War in 1936, as the Catalan market was closed during the time of war. The fishing industry too declined dramatically during the 1930’s, however, not necessarily because of the war but due to the major industrialization on the island. Many fishermen were able to sell their boats and purchase properties with land for cultivation of crops for discounted prices.

Following two years of massive snowfall in 1956 and 1959 known as “l’any de sa neu” and “la calabruixada” respectively, made the cultivation of tomatoes decrease to a minimum level, thus many people from the town migrated to Palma to find new occupations and lives.

Contemporary history

With the restoration of democracy in 1976, after the death of Franco, Jaume Tomàs Font was elected first mayor of Banyalbufar.

Today, the area is mainly dedicated to cultivation of crops and tourism.